Time for termite swarms: What you should know to protect your home from this pest
By Jeff Teague, Responsible Services
The subterranean termites common to our area every spring are typically the Eastern subterranean termite (Reticulitermes flavipes). Occasionally, we’ll see the dark Southern subterranean termite (Reticulitermes virginicus). Both of these species tend to swarm on a good warm day (high 60s/low 70’s) in the spring after a wet period. This is the colony pushing out the winged caste that are specially produced for this purpose. They are basically new kings and queens, and are meant to be pushed out of that downed tree or old stump by the hundreds. The whole idea is that birds and other insects will consume the majority of them — but hopefully a pair or two will survive and mate. They will then drop their wings, tunnel into the wet exposed soil and start producing workers for their new colony.
The first thing homeowners need to do is not panic (I know, it is easy for me to say!). But these swarming kings and queens cannot infest your home. Without contact to soil and moisture, they will drop their wings and die. However, their presence is proof that there is a current termite infestation in your home.
I recommend saving a few swarmer specimens in a plastic sandwich bag for identification by your pest control company. The rest can be vacuumed up, dead or alive, placed in a sealable plastic bag and thrown away. The aggravating part for most homeowners is that termites can swarm multiple times in the spring from the same area.
Choosing a company
You have many options when it comes to choosing a pest control company — and there are many pitfalls you can avoid with some basic information. You need to find a company you are comfortable with, so ask friends, family or neighbors about their experiences with pest control companies.
Beware of warranties, and read them completely to fully understand whether the warranty actually covers anything. Damage warranties are notorious in our industry for disclaiming damage in any area that is not able to be inspected. This means the interior cavity of all walls, as they are typically disclaimed in the fine print. What does that mean in plain speak? You can be sold on a huge $250,000+ damage guarantee that covers very little.
That being said, there are good companies with good reputations out there that stand behind their work and who offer realistic warranties. Spend a little time evaluating companies — a little homework can quickly narrow your choices to the right one.
Questions to ask your potential provider:
1. Are you using a repellent or non-repellent termiticide?
In the most basic terms, non-repellent means the termites walk right through the chemical and pass it along to one another through their social behavior. Repellent termiticides, as the name suggests, form a barrier around the home so that termites do not get in. Personally, I recommend non-repellent treatment because it is more forgiving — if rocks or backfill disturb a repellent chemical’s barrier, termites tend to find the gap and use it to their advantage. This is not a concern with non-repellents. In addition, a non-repellent termiticide allows for perimeter plus localized interior treatment on most labels.
2. Will you provide me with a label and total gallons figured for my home? Will you explain the label to me?
Make sure they highlight the parts of the label that apply to your home so you understand the treatment. If it does not make sense, have them explain it again. If it still does not sound right, you might want to find a provider that you understand and trust. It may be confusing because they don’t want you to understand they are not figuring the total gallons properly. Did they provide you with the percentage of chemical in solution and are you on the low end (0.06% vs.125%, for example)?
3. Does it matter to you whether I have a sump pump, well or cistern?
All of these will require specific treatment options. For example, sump pumps remove water from around and under the foundation, so the chemical would be treated like water and can contaminate a sump pump, well or cistern. Make sure this is being addressed and either treatable on the label or not. If you have a sump pump, you would not want to do treatment when the ground is saturated. It would not be able to dry and attach to the soil prior to being removed by the sump pump — and could potentially contaminate the sewer or a local creek.
4. Will you explain the entire treatment, plus the warranty or coverage for re-treatment?
If you don’t understand everything, ask more questions. Bids should be competitively priced, but beware of extremely low bids because they are not really giving you a deal. Somewhere, they have cut corners (personnel expense, chemical expense, etc.) and you just might end up getting what you pay for.
5. If you’re doing non-chemical treatment (baiting), how many bait stations will be placed around my home? Will you give me a copy of the label?
The label is the law for the pest management industry, and on the label is where you can verify station placement interval. Too many is unnecessary; too few will not get the control you’re after.
6. Do you add any auxiliary stations when you get termite activity?
In my experience, termite baiting can work quickly and more effectively when you add auxiliary stations adjacent to the active baited station. Often you will get more termites in the adjacent auxiliary stations — more bait going to the colony. The colony is then affected more rapidly.
7. How often will the stations be inspected? What is the follow-up treatment when we have activity?
Termite baiting is only as good as the company providing the service. Again, you need to be comfortable with your provider. Ask about the company and get references.
